Every spring there are the same issues that boatyards face. Split pipes, frozen and burst calorifiers, cracked water pumps, batteries that have flatlined and won’t come back, and countless other issues. Most of these are from boats that have been left for the winter and not properly prepared. All of these issues are preventable.
If you live on the boat, the heating keeps most of this away. This page is mostly for boats that will be left empty for long periods of time.
Most marinas and boat storage facilities don’t offer winterising as a service. It is up to the boat owner to do this preparations themselves or find a company that offers the service. This page attempts to cover some of the bases that are best practices for winterising your boat yourself.
Draining the water system
Water expands when it freezes, which can burst the container holding it. So shut off the water pump and open up all the taps to drain the system as much as possible. Drain the calorifier (the hot water tank) using its drain valve if it has one. Leave the taps open to drain so that any water can drain out. Some owners blow through the pipes or run a non-toxic antifreeze through the system to be sure.
Don’t forget the shower, the water pump itself and any filters. They often hold water as well.
The engine
Test antifreeze in the engine coolant to see if it is adequate for a hard frost. A tester costs very little and takes a minute. If your engine is raw water cooled, the raw water side either needs draining or flushing through with antifreeze, otherwise water sitting in the engine block can freeze and crack it.
Fill the fuel tank. Empty tanks collect condensation. Water in diesel leads to diesel bug which can block filters and stop the engine in the spring. A fuel additive also helps.
Batteries
Fully charge your batteries before you leave your boat, and disconnect them or keep them charged with solar or shore power. If you can visit your boat, check the batteries every few weeks.
Inside the boat
Damp is the other winter problem. Leave interior doors open and don’t block air flow with cushions and mattresses. Keep the vents clear. Take anything that can go mouldy (clothing, bedding and food) home. A couple of moisture traps in the cabin help boats that will be shut-up for long periods. Empty the toilet tank before you go.
Staying afloat or coming out
While most narrowboats don’t come out of the water in the winter, if your boat is drained and someone is checking on it then it’s not a problem to leave it in the water. Do leave some slack in the mooring lines. River levels can rise quickly with rain. Ice can be really bad on the hulls of boats, so avoiding it is best.
Some owners prefer to take the boat out of the water for the winter and store it on dry land. This avoids the boat having to be in the water during the flood and ice seasons. This option allows you to work on the hull and bottom of the boat over the winter. This option costs more with the added costs of lift out and storage for the winter, and putting it back in the water. A good cover is good for either option, as long as it allows air to flow through it.
We cover the rest of the checks for the boat during the year in our maintenance schedule, and Taking your Boat off the Water covers lift out.
It is a good idea to write down everything you switched off, drained, or disconnected. By April nobody remembers, and it’s easy to start the engine with a seacock still closed.